There are hundreds of components that can easily cost $100 to
$500 to replace. Parts like these:
-
Brake master cylinder
-
Power steering pump
-
Fuel pump
-
Windshield wiper motor
-
Power door lock actuator
-
Fuel injectors
-
Sound system
-
Water pump
The only way to protect yourself is to buy a car that is under
warranty, or get an extended warranty that will take care of
repairs. Even if you buy a car with low mileage that is still under
warranty, it's a good idea to get an extended warranty that picks up
when the manufacturer's warranty expires.
If you're buying a car from a dealer you can always buy an
extended warranty from the dealer. In fact the finance manager will
probably try to "hard sell" you to take the dealers extended
warranty. That's because the dealership makes a huge profit on
warranty sales, and the finance manager gets a cut of it. A warranty
that the dealer is trying to push on you for $1,995 may only cost
them $600. That's why they're so pushy about the extended warranty.
Compare the dealer's price and coverage to the cost of a discount
extended warranty from Warranty Direct.
Types of used cars
You might think that there are only 2 kinds of cars. New cars and
used cars. In fact there are many types of used cars. Some are very
desirable, and some you should avoid at all costs. Know what kind of
used car you are buying, and learn how to spot one that is being
presented to be more than it is.
Certified Pre-owned. These are used cars that are in above
average condition, and have been refurbished to the manufacturers
specifications. True Certified Pre-Owned cars are only available
from a dealer that sells that brand. That is, only Honda dealers
sell Honda Certified Pre Owned cars, only Lexus dealers sell Lexus
Certified Pre Owned cars, and so on.
Off Lease Cars. Virtually every carmaker has a leasing program.
When leases are over cars are returned to the manufacturer, who then
sell the cars to auto dealers. Most brands are available to all car
dealers. So a Honda dealer may have Nissan off lease cars for sale.
Many independent dealers specialize in off lease cars.
Trade Ins. These are cars that dealers take on trade when selling
a new car. It's usually easier to verify the history of a traded
vehicle. The customer who traded he vehicle is usually a local
resident. The dealership may have a record of the service history,
especially if they originally sold the car new.
Private Party. Cars that are for sale by owner. Usually you can
learn more about the history of a used car when you deal directly
with the owner. Be aware that many people have their car "for sale
by owner" because they are unhappy with the price they were offered
by a dealer. They may have unrealistic expectations of how much
their car is actually worth. Some people try to unload their car
when it starts giving trouble, so be sure to have it inspected by a
mechanic.
Researching used cars
Before you go shopping for a used car you should research cars
online. Find out which used cars are reliable, and which tend to
have problems. An Acura is a great car, but 2004 Acura TLs are known
to have vibration problems in the front end. Certain Toyotas have
problems with engine sludge, and a new engine costs $4,000.
You can research any used car at Edmunds.com. Check the current
market value, and find out what equipment came standard on the car,
and what was optional. Edmunds also has a great forum where you can
chat to other people who have bought used cars. Find out wahat the
owners actually think about their car.
Kelley Blue Book is another great site for researching used car
values. They give you retail, trade in, and private party values on
used cars. You can even make adjustments for mileage, condition, and
optional equipment. Print it out. This is a great negotiating tool
to get a seller to drop their price.
Salvage cars
When a car is crashed, flooded, or stolen, and an insurance pays
a total loss claim, a salvage title is issued. The intent is for the
car to be sold for parts, but many auto rebuilders specialize in
obtaining salvage vehicles, rebuilding them, and putting them back
on the road. After a car has been rebuilt most states will inspect
it, certify it as roadworthy, and issue a clean title for it. But
once a car has been salvaged it's value will always be less than
half of what a similar non-salvage car would be. Always check CARFAX
to make sure you are not getting a previously salvaged vehicle.
You can't always spot a salvage car by visual inspection, but
some things to watch out for are:
-
Waves in the paint (look down the side of the car from an angle).
-
Uneven gaps between body panels
-
Any sign of welding under the hood or in the trunk
-
Non-matching VIN plates
-
Steering pulls to one side
-
Vehicle seems unstable when driven
-
Water leaks
-
Excessive wind noise
Don't buy form curbstoners. These are illegal, unlicensed dealers
who operate from the curb stone on the street. They typically buy
and sell sub-standard cars that have hidden problems. If you buy
from a curbstoner, and the car has problems, or turns out to be
stolen or salvaged, there is not much you can do. These guys operate
in the shadows, and quickly move from place to place. It's unlikely
you could ever find them again. Most curbstoners pose as individuals
selling the family car, when they are really buying and selling cars
in volume. That's another reason to verify the history with CARFAX
on any used car you are thinking about buying.
Matching VIN Plates. Every car sold in the USA since 1980 has a
17 digit Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). The public VIN plate
is the main VIN plate on the car. It should be visible when standing
outside the vehicle and looking through the windshield on the
drivers side. The VIN also appears on other components like the
doors, trunk, and hood. Check to make sure that all the VIN plates
match. If one has a different number that component has been
replaced from another car. Usually the sign of a wreck. If any of
the VIN plates appear to be tampered with the car may be stolen.
How to spot a car that has been in a flood or hurricane. In the
past 2 years 5 major hurricanes have hit he United States flooding
and damaging over 100,000 cars. Most of which have been cleaned,
repaired, and put back on the used car market. If you buy a car that
has been underwater I guarantee you are going to have problems. The
car may look pristine, but it is slowly corroding from the inside
out, starting with expensive electrical components. If the ECU goes
bad it could easily cost you $1,000 to replace it. Cars have
thousands of electrical connections, and water damage causes them to
start corroding. First the window won't roll down, then the airbag
light comes on, then the car simply won't start.
Don't think that just because you don't live near the areas
affected by hurricanes and flooding that you are safe. Cars are
shipped everywhere. A car may be flooded in Florida and be in
California the next week. Just take a look at all those car carriers
on the interstate. Not all of them are delivering new cars.
So how do you spot a car that has been damaged by water?
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Pull back the carpeting and look for silt or mud.
-
Does the car smell musty? That should be your #1 sign.
-
Look under the dash for any signs of a waterline.
-
Open the hood and check the oil. If it looks milky or frothy
that's a sign of water in the oil.
-
Check all the electrical accessories to make sure they work.
CARFAX has just added a new feature that shows if a car was
registered in a flood area. They will also show if the car has been
declared a total loss as a result of a flood.
How to spot odometer rollback
Most odometers today are digital, which makes it more difficult
to tamper with the odometer reading. However, a professional
odometer crook knows how to reprogram the chip in the car's ECU that
records the vehicle mileage. Don't assume that no one can tamper
with a digital odometer. It just takes more tech skills to change a
digital odometer than the old analog style.
If you're looking at an older car that has the analog "wheel"
type of odometer look to make sure all the numbers are aligned. If
not the mileage has probably been clipped.
Your best defense against odometer fraud is to use your head. Is
the overall condition consistent with the mileage?
Look for any components that show excess wear.
-
Accelerator pedal
-
Brake pedal
-
Upholstery
-
Driver's seat
-
Radio controls
-
Window & lock switches
-
Key & remote entry
These components are used all the time. If the odometer shows low
mileage but the car shows a lot of wear it may have had the odometer
rolled back
If you have any doubts run a CARFAX. It can help spot odometer
fraud, and shows each time the mileage was recorded.
You should also ask for maintenance records. Check for mileage
consistency each time the car was serviced.
What to get when buying a used car. Here's a checklist of items
you should get when buying a used car. The seller may not have
everything on the list, but be sure to ask.
Take possession of the car as soon as you pay for it. Some
sellers will want you to come back later for the car. They might
claim they want to put the original radio back, or put the original
wheels on. That's fine if you agreed to it. just don't hand over
your money until you get the car. If the car were to be involved in
an accident after you paid for it you could be liable. Some sellers
will try to swap equipment off the car without your knowledge.
Replacing new tires for 4 that are worn out, Or removing a new part
that was recently installed on the car, and putting the old one back
on. I've seen this trick tried by both dealers and private sellers,
so watch out.
Get the title. If you're buying from an individual you should
always get the title at the time you buy the car. If you're buying
from a dealership and financing, then the title will go to the bank.
But if you're paying cash you should be able to walk with the title.
If you're writing a check then the dealer will usually hold the
title until your check clears. This is standard practice, and not a
problem, when dealing with a licensed dealer.
Owner's manuals. Be sure to get any manuals that came with the
car. You may not ever read them, but it helps when you are ready to
sell the car.
Extra keys and remotes. Be sure to ask for any extra keys and
keyless entry remotes.
Original radio. If the car has had the sound system replaced ask
if the original radio is available.
Original wheels. Get the original wheels if the car has had the
wheels changed.
Window sticker. The window sticker will detail all the original
equipment that came with the car. A plus for resale value down the
road.
Emissions documents. If you live in a city that requires
emissions testing be sure to get the documentation on the cars last
inspection.
Warranty papers for tires and battery. If the car has had new
tires, a battery replaced, or any other repairs that are still under
warranty be sure to get all the warranty documents. This could save
you money later.
VIN decoding
Every car sold in the United States since 1980 has a unique 17
digit Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). With the VIN you can tell
a lot of information about the car.
-
Year model
-
Country of origin
-
Make
-
Model
-
Engine size
The 10th digit of the VIN indicates year model. Beginning with
2001 models the 10th digit was a number. 2006 models have a 6 in the
10th position, 2005 models have a 5, and so on. Prior to 2001 the
10th digit was a letter. See our VIN chart for a complete list of
year models.
The 1st digit indicates country of origin.
Cars built in the USA begin with 1.
Japan built cars begin with J.
German made cars start with W.
The VIN also identifies the exact make, model and engine size of
the vehicle.
How to use the phone and e mail to eliminate used cars from your
list.
There are millions of used cars on the market today. You need to
quickly eliminate cars that don't meet your standards. Here's a
quick checklist of questions you need answered before you spend time
driving around looking at cars. If you see a car advertised that
sounds promising call or e mail first.
-
How many miles does the car have?
-
Has it ever been wrecked?
-
Does it have a clean title history?
-
Does the car need any repairs?
If you do decide to go and see the car in person be sure to take
along our list of 10 questions to ask before buying a used car at a
dealership, or 15 questions to ask before buying a used car from an
individual.
What to look for when inspecting a used car
Look for signs of repainting and previous damage. The paint
should be smooth and even. Look at the paint closely from panel to
panel. It should be consistent all the way around the car. If one
area looks a little off-color, or has an uneven texture that looks
like an orange peel, then the car may have been repainted. Look
closely at rubber moldings, especially windshield moldings where the
rubber meets the paint. If you see paint on a molding the car has
definitely been repainted. Run a finger along the inside edges of
the hood, trunk, doors and fenders. The edges should be smooth. If
you feel a hard or ragged edge it most likely means that panel has
been repainted.
Look closely at the gaps between body panels. Any excessive or
uneven gaps indicate previous damage. Raise the hood and look at the
bolts that hold the fender. Unless the car has been damaged there is
no reason these bolts should be removed. If the bolts show any
scratches or signs of repositioning that body panel has been damaged
or replaced.
From the front and rear of the car step back a few feet and look
down the sides of the car. The sides should be smooth all the way
down each side. If it appears wavy the car has been hit in that
area.
On newer cars each body panel is stamped with the cars VIN. Check
to see that all panels have the same VIN. If one is different it
means that panel was taken off another car that has been salvaged or
stolen, and put on this one.
Look for a white film under the hood, in the wheel wells and
underneath the car. This is a sign of salt deposits which indicates
the car has seen heavy use in ice and snow conditions. Occasional
driving in salty conditions is okay, but the car should be washed
afterward. Salt will cause a car to rust, so you should avoid cars
that show excessive signs of salt deposits.
Check underneath the car and under the hood for any signs of
fluid leaks. Start the engine and let it run for a few minutes then
move it and look for any fluids. A green or orange fluid is coolant
and means the car has a radiator or coolant hose leak. Red fluid
indicates a transmission or power steering system leak. Brown or
black is oil or brake fluid. If you see any fluid leaks have the car
inspected by a mechanic before buying.
Take a look at the exhaust pipe. A slightly chalky or sooty
appearance is normal. if the inside of the exhaust pipe is oily it
means the car is burning oil, and the engine is worn. A milky fluid
coming from the exhaust pipe is actually residue from burnt oil and
anti-freeze. This is a sign of a bad head gasket, which is a
high-dollar repair.
Check all the car's equipment. does everything work properly.
Check all of the following:
-
Head lights
-
Brake lights
-
Windshield wipers
-
Cruise control
-
Power windows
-
Door locks
-
Fuel door release
-
Trunk release
-
Hood release
-
Sound system
-
Air conditioning
-
Heater
-
Any other accessories
Try to determine the overall condition of the car by carefully
inspecting it's individual components. If you find too many problem
areas move on to another car.
Why buy a used car?
It's a great way to save money, or to get a nicer car for less.
For instance, a base model new 2006 Ford Explorer will set you back
about $28,000. You can get a 2005 Explorer with the Eddie Bauer
Luxury Package, leather seats, and navigation system for around
$24,000. Buying used is a great way to get more for less.
Insurance savings. You can insure a used car for less. Insurance
companies base their rates, in part, on the value of the vehicle.
Your driving record also plays a part, but with everything else
being equal it will cost you less to insure a used car than a new
car.
Finance savings. Since you are financing less money your finance
charges will be less.
Watch out for cars with excessively high or low mileage. Mileage
plays a big factor in the value of the vehicle. Average mileage on a
used car is 15,000 miles per year, so a 4 year old car could be
expected to have around 60,000 miles. Anything more than that and
you will need to deduct from the cars value. How much depends on the
exact vehicle. A BMW 328 will take more of a hit on value than a
Ford Taurus.
If the car has excessively low mileage find out why. Is it
because the owner worked from home and didn't drive much, or is it
because the car was in a major accident 3 years ago and was sitting
in a salvage yard until 2 months ago when it was rebuilt?
Never buy a used car without test driving it first.
A test drive should be considered a final inspection of the car
before buying. It's not a joyride. Car salespeople know that getting
you to take a test drive is a powerful selling tool. That's why they
push you to "just take it for a drive." That's exactly why you
should wait before test driving. Make sure the car checks out, and
the price is right, before you drive it. What to look for on a test
drive:
-
Does the engine start right away?
-
Does the transmission engage smoothly?
-
Does it accelerate to speed okay?
-
Do you feel any vibration?
-
Is there any wind noise?
-
Do the gears shift smoothly?
-
Are there squeaks or rattles?
-
How does it handle a curve?
-
Do the brakes feel firm?
-
Does the car stop quickly?
-
Is the steering wheel straight?
-
Does the car pull to one side?
If possible have someone else drive while you ride along.
Sometimes you can notice problems better when you are not
concentrating on driving. When you go on a test drive turn the radio
off so that you can concentrate on evaluating the car.
The engine should start immediately and idle smoothly. For
automatic transmissions the transmission should engage as soon as
you put it in drive. When the transmission shifts it should do so
quickly and smoothly. If the engine suddenly speeds up when the
transmission is shifting the car has major transmission problems
which can cost $2,000 to repair.
Be on the lookout for excessive wind noise, vibration, squeaks
and rattles. A certain amount of road noise is normal, but excessive
noise or vibration could be the sign of mechanical problems or a
previous accident. Try to drive over speed bumps or railroad tracks.
The car should drive in a straight line without pulling to one
side, and it should handle a curve okay. If the steering wheel is
off center or the car pulls to one side the car is not aligned
properly and will cause premature tire wear. This can also be an
accident indicator.
When braking the pedal should remain firm and not feel spongy or
fade to the floorboard. If you feel a vibration when braking it's a
sign of warped brake rotors. They can usually be machined, but if
you need new brake rotors it could cost you $300 bucks.
If the car passes inspection, and you like it and want to buy it
be sure and read our negotiating guide first.
Processing the paperwork
Buying a used car is a complex process. If you're buying at a
dealership there will be a lot of paperwork involved. You can let
the dealer handle financing for you, but you can usually save money
by getting an online loan.
Read everything before you sign it.
Some of the forms a dealer may ask you to sign are:
An odometer disclosure statement is required by federal law on
all car sales by dealers unless the car is more than 10 years old.
The mileage is recorded at the time the car is purchased and again
when it is sold, and must be signed by both parties. Be sure the
form you are asked to sign matches what is actually showing on the
car. This helps to protect against odometer fraud.